ELECTRICAL TROUBLE SHOOTING: Now I'd like to go over some common problems that can occur with your electrical system. Your engine won't start, you don't hear any sound when turning the ignition key or you hear just a 'click-click' noise. First, check to see if your headlights are dim or out. If they are, you probably have a battery problem. If the battery is flat, have it jump started and if it won't jump start, have the battery recharged or replaced. After replacing the battery, the car starts okay but shortly thereafter, the battery is flat again. Have the alternator tested. Should the battery be okay, make sure battery cables are not frayed and connections are clean and tight. Also, make sure all the other electrical connections are clean and tight. If they are, perform a solenoid test to determine if the solenoid or ignition switch is the problem. Also, have the starter tested as well as check for burnt or broken fuses. Should everything be okay, the problem could be a faulty fusible link, if your system has one, or there might be a short in some other area of the electrical system. See a specialist. ENGINE SKIPS AND RUNS ROUGH AT HIGH SPEED: Replace all the spark plug wires if any are cracked or frayed. Perform a tune-up and replace the fuel filters. Check for worn intake manifold gasket or worn or disconnected vacuum hoses utilizing the aerosol test. If the problem continues, do a compression and spark test. No or weak spark could indicate a worn coil. Also, have your mechanic adjust the carburetor, test the fuel pump and check for plug injectors on injection system. The carburetor may need to rebuilt or replaced if everything else is okay. ENGINE BACKFIRING: Replace the muffler, if worn, and make sure spark plug wire connections are tight and not crossed. Replace all the wires if any are worn and get a tune-up. If the problem continues, have your mechanic re-set the timing and adjust the carburetor. Also, do a compression test. If everything is okay, the carburetor may need to be rebuilt or replaced. GRINDING NOISE WHEN TRYING TO START THE CAR: Replace or rebuild the starter and have your mechanic check the flywheel if the problem continues. SLOW CRANKING WHEN TRYING TO START THE CAR: First check to see if the battery and all other electrical connections are clean and tight. Also, make sure the alternator drive belt is tight. Have the voltage in your battery tested and if everything is okay, have the alternator and if separate, the regulator tested. WHINING, SQUEAKING OR GRINDING NOISE FROM UNDER THE HOOD WHILE THE ENGINE IS ON: First, tighten up any lose drive belts and replace if cracked or frayed. If the belts are okay, disconnect one belt at a time, run the engine and if the noise steps, then one or two parts driven by that belt is the problem. Usually, it's a faulty alternator or water pump. ALTERNATOR, GENERATOR OR AMP LIGHT STAYS ON: Immediately check to see if the battery connections are clean and tight as well as make sure the alternator drive belt is tight. Have the voltage in your battery tested and if everything is okay, the problem is usually a faulty alternator. CAR WON'T START ON RAINY DAYS: Remove the distributor cap and clean the moisture inside. ENGINE IDLES ROUGH, FAST OR MISFIRES: Replace the air filter if dirty, check the PVC valve and clean inside the carburetor as well as the throttle and choke linkages. Add injection cleaner to fuel injection systems. Make sure spark plug wire connections are tight and not crossed and replace all wires if any are worn. Check intake manifold gasket and vacuum hoses for leaks utilizing the aerosol test. If everything is okay, perform a tune-up and examine the spark plugs for deposits. A sooty, whitish or melted electrode can indicate a lean fuel mixture or an over heating timing or gaping problem. A wet or sooty black electrode can indicate a rich fuel mixture or an excessive idling, faulty choke, weak spark or dirty air filter problem. Do a spark test and replace with a hotter range of plug. If the problem continues do a compression test and have your mechanic re-set the timing, adjust the carburetor and choke as well as adjust, if necessary, the idling speed and test for plug injectors on fuel injection systems. The problem could be also a worn timing chain or faulty EGR valve, control unit or sensory or just a loose sensory connection. If everything is okay, the carburetor may need to be rebuilt or replaced. DIRECTIONAL BLINKER OR BRAKE LIGHT DOES NOT OPERATE: Replace any worn bulbs and if bulbs are okay, examine the fuses and have the directional flasher or brake light switch checked.
